It is a fine Sunday morning. The sun is shining on a windless, cloudless blue sky.
The light frost last night kissed crops with the cold they need to be sweet and slow growing.

Late December and early January are historically our biggest roll of the farming dice. Deep freezes during this period can kill some crops outright. While some years we have ended up with empty pockets, so far 2012 has proven that the gamble of planting fields in November was a good bet, with dry and mild days. We picked our orange crop the day before the mid month freeze of 24 degrees. Although the oranges weren’t perfectly sweet, we were able to harvest some beautiful fruit. We are probably pushing orange production here, as the farm lies in a little bit of a cold spot in the winter. Other crops have come through the cold looking green and healthy. Spinach, baby lettuce, greens, beets and carrots held steady. Sugar snap peas, asparagus, alliums (onions, green garlic and leeks) and broccoli passed through the cold nights and will also help fill your boxes in the spring.

The year has started as a contrast to last year. Because of low rainfall this fall and two very dry months, we were changing pipes and irrigating our fields and orchards for much of December and January. This is the first time in 30 years that we have had to push water — two months of changing 30- foot aluminum sprinkler pipe. Frosty nights and cold dry days desiccated plants as they struggled to keep up with the drying conditions. Cover crops, hay crops and all of our vegetable crops were thirsty for a bit of moisture. Orchards require winter rainfall in order to have the deep moisture to sustain them in hot July weather. Even melons or tomatoes show stress when there is a lack of deep winter moisture. Until the last rain 10 days ago, we had the driest period on record. We get our water from both deep wells and directly from Cache Creek on the eastern border of our farm. Both systems are stressed at this point. There is a great deal of winter still to come and we can collectively hope for a very wet February or March.

In the larger picture, it will be difficult to make up the deficit in rainfall and snow pack that has left the Sierras far behind in the moisture needed to fill reservoirs, scour out streams and keep waterways healthy. The implications are profound. It is at this point, a year of growing uncertainty for Central Valley farmers about water supplies and shortages in an already over-allocated system. This requires mindful conservation on everyone’s part.

The dry December and January allowed us to do things we frankly never have done in these months. We had opportunities to disc fields, eliminating weeds and making soil ready for February plantings of greens, potatoes, lettuces and the whole variety of spring crops. The soil was dry and the tilth was perfect. We cultivated all of the growing crops to keep the fields weed free. The three acres of flowers are clean with the first tulip blooms popping open to signal the start of a riot of color. January has been a remarkable start for 2012.

Karen Morss traded silicon for Meyer lemons

By Heidi Lewis

Karen Morss is called the Lemon Lady. She started her suburban Emerald Hills, CA (San Mateo County), organic citrus farm, Lemon Ladies Orchard, in 2004. She has done her part breaking glass ceilings in boardrooms and the wild blue yonder with careers as a software entrepreneur and the owner of a flight school geared toward women. She even tried her hand at screenwriting, when she developed a script about the Wright Brothers’ sister, Katharine Wright. Now she’s an orchardist, or orchardess, as she calls herself.

With 40 Meyer lemon trees located south of San Francisco (near the valley once known for its fruit trees and now famous for its silicon), the great organic citrus isn’t the only special thing about Karen’s lemon orchard. Every tree bears a tile with a name: Celia, Debbie, Hildegard, Lynette, Madeline, Zohreh, and more. “Each tree is named for a woman who inspired me or helped me achieve my goals in life,” Karen says. “Some are from my family, some are from the flight school, some are just people who inspired me in general. There is an Amelia Earhart lemon tree out there.”

Karen says she planted her orchard because she had an empty backyard and “adored Meyer lemons—and back then, they were very hard to come by.” She jackhammered 40 holes and filled them with young trees and organic compost. She pruned heavily the first few years and has been treated to beaucoup harvests ever since. Meyer lemons grow on a thorny, bush-like tree, ripening in a constant succession of fragrant blossoms to fruit from around August until May.

The Meyer lemon is a lemon-mandarin cross. Chefs and bakers prize it for its thin, edible skin and heavenly scent. Karen loves to add a slice to water: “Everybody knows you’re supposed to drink more water, but it’s not always easy. [Add] Meyer lemon, and you’ll just gulp it down—it’s such a treat!” Karen makes Meyer lemon marmalades and recommends using them in an Italian pudding called Budino for a treat. You’ll hardly be at a loss for how to infuse your days with this sweet and fragrant lemon, but if you are, the Los Angeles Times has 100 suggestions.

Q & A with Karen Morss, the Lemon Lady
Q: What did you have to study in school to become a farmer?
A: Marketing.

Q: How old were you when you started farming?
A: I was 45 years old.

Q: What’s your favorite part about being a farmer?
A: The smell of lemon blossoms.

Q: What’s your favorite way to use a Meyer lemon?
A: Slice one thinly, removing seeds as you go. Lay out slices in a single layer on a plate and freeze for 15–20 minutes. Remove from the freezer, drizzle with honey, and enjoy!

• Slice the lemons into thin rounds to add a fresh kick to water or tea.
• Slice the lemons into wedges and squeeze the juice over fish, chicken or steamed vegetable dishes.
• For delicious lemonade, juice the lemons and dilute the juice with water 1:3. Dissolve 1 part sugar in an additional 1 part hot water to create a simple syrup. Combine and chill.
• Flavor your favorite muffins, cookie and scones with lemon juice and a couple tsp of zest.
• To save for later, juice the lemons and partially fill a plastic bottle or container with the juice.
  Leave the lid off until frozen, then return lid. Defrost when warm whether calls for lemonade!

PREPARATION

• 1 ounce Parmesan cheese, preferably Parmigiano-Reggiano, shaved
• Preheat oven to 400 degrees.
• In a bowl, toss the leaves with olive oil, pepper & salt to taste.
• Layer leaves in a baking sheet and roast until leaves are wilted and slightly browned, 12 to 15 minutes.
• Transfer to a platter. Just before serving, drizzle vinegar over each wedge, and garnish with cheese shavings.

PREPARATION

• Place 3/4 cup of vinegar, sugar and salt in a glass jar with a tight fitting lid.
• Close lid and shake to dissolve salt and sugar. If it doesn’t all dissolve, don’t worry.
• Add the radishes and chilli flakes and enough vinegar to cover the radishes.
• Let sit at least 1 or up to 2 days.
• Serve with miso soup, alongside rice and stir fry dishes, add to salad or snack right out of the jar!

Adapted from whatsforsupper-juno.blogspot.com

INGREDIENTS
1 head of cauliflower or Romanesco cauliflower
6 tablespoons melted butter or vegan margarine
3–4 tablespoons breadcrumbs (see Cook’s note)
Juice of 1 lemon
1/2 cup fresh parsley, finely chopped, plus more for garnish
Salt and pepper to taste

PREPARATION

• Cut cauliflower into florets, rinse well, and steam covered over boiling water until it’s just tender and yields to a knife (around 4–6 minutes).
• Heat butter in a frying pan on medium. When the butter stops foaming, add breadcrumbs and sauté until they turn golden brown and crunchy (should be just a few minutes).
• Remove from the heat and stir in the lemon juice and 1/2 cup of parsley, and season with salt and pepper.
• Place cauliflower in serving dish, coat with the lemon-butter sauce, and serve hot with extra parsley as garnish.

Serves 4. Prep time, 5 minutes; cook time, 10 minutes.

Cook’s note: Use high-quality pre-packaged breadcrumbs, or make your own using a food processor.

INGREDIENTS
3/4 pound sunchokes (Jerusalem artichokes)
1/2 teaspoon salt
1–2 tablespoons butter
Black pepper to taste
1/4 cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese

PREPARATION

• Preheat oven to 400°F.
• Peel the sunchokes and drop them in salted, boiling water. Cook until they feel just tender but not mushy when prodded with a fork (check frequently, and be careful not to overcook). Remove from heat and drain.
• When sunchokes are cool enough to handle, cut them into 1/4-inch slices.
• Lightly coat the bottom of a baking dish with butter, and arrange sunchoke slices in the dish so they overlap slightly.
• Sprinkle with pepper and grated cheese, dot with butter, and place the dish on uppermost rack of preheated oven.
• Bake until a light golden crust begins to form on top. Allow to settle for a few minutes out of the oven before serving.

Serves 4. Prep time, 10–15 minutes; cook time, approximately 20–30 minutes.

INGREDIENTS
2 medium to large artichokes
Juice of 1 lemon and zest of 1/2 lemon
For Lemon Butter: 1/2 cup butter or vegan margarine
For Lemon Mayo: 1/2 cup mayonnaise or Vegenaise
1/2 teaspoon Dijon mustard (optional)
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

PREPARATION: Artichokes

• Wash artichokes in cold, running water.
• Trim the end of the stem to desired length, such as 1 inch. Remember— the stem is an extension of the artichoke heart and is edible!
• Trim artichoke tops by cutting off 1/4 of the top (about an inch) and discard.
• Use scissors to trim the thorns off the top of each petal (optional).
• To preserve the color, immediately rub any cut surface of the artichoke with juice of half a lemon to prevent browning caused by oxidation (optional).
• Steam in 1/2–1 inch of water (in a steamer basket or right in the pot) until inside leaves pull out easily and are tender (20–45 minutes depending on size of artichokes).

PREPARATION: Dipping Sauces

• Prepare Lemon Butter by melting butter or vegan margarine and stirring in lemon juice and zest.
• Prepare Lemon Mayo by stirring lemon zest and juice into mayonnaise and mixing thoroughly to combine (add mustard if desired).
• Season with salt and pepper to taste.

Serves 2. Prep time, 10 minutes; cook time, 20–45 minutes.

Cook’s note: Mayo/Vegenaise-based dipping sauce works with hot or cold artichokes. For lighter fare, drizzle steamed artichokes with plain lemon juice and season lightly with salt and pepper.

INGREDIENTS
2 cups potatoes in 1/2-inch dice
1 cup mushrooms in 1-inch dice
1/2 cup onion in 1/2-inch dice
2 cloves garlic, minced
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 1/2 tablespoons olive oil
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon pepper
1 tablespoon chopped parsley
Pinch of red pepper flakes (optional)
1 tablespoon chopped fresh thyme, oregano, or rosemary (optional)

PREPARATION

• Put potatoes and 1/2 teaspoon salt in a saucepan and cover with cold water.
• Bring to a boil, reduce heat, and simmer until just barely tender, about 5–8 minutes. Remove from heat and drain.
• Meanwhile, heat oil in a skillet to medium-high.
• Add onion, garlic, salt, pepper, and red pepper flakes (if using), and cook for 1 minute.
• Add drained potatoes, mushrooms, and fresh herbs (if using).
• Reduce heat to medium and cook until well caramelized, about 10 minutes. Toss halfway through.
• Sprinkle with chopped parsley and serve.

Serves 4. Prep time, 15 minutes; cook time, 15 minutes.

Cook’s note: For breakfast, top with a poached egg. Serve as a side dish for dinner, or top with sautéed greens for a hearty meal for two.

INGREDIENTS
2–3 watermelon radishes, sliced or julienned
2–3 carrots or 1 kohlrabi bulb, grated
1 bunch dandelion greens or living spicy Asian greens (roots removed)
Salt and freshly ground black pepper

Dressing Option 1: Sesame Vinaigrette
1/4 cup sesame oil
3 tablespoons rice wine vinegar
1 clove garlic, minced
1 teaspoon minced ginger
1 teaspoon soy sauce
1 teaspoon brown sugar
Optional garnish: Toasted sesame seeds

Dressing Option 2: Lemony-Mustard Walnut Vinaigrette
1/4 cup walnut oil (use olive oil or sesame oil if walnut is unavailable)
2 tablespoons apple cider vinegar
1 tablespoon agave nectar or honey
2 teaspoons stone-ground mustard
1–2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice (depending on your taste)
Optional garnish: Chopped walnuts

PREPARATION

• Wash and dry greens, place in a bowl, and top with radishes and carrots.
• Whisk together vinaigrette ingredients of choice until emulsified, and drizzle desired amount over salad.
• Top with toasted sesame seeds or chopped walnuts (optional).

Serves 2–3. Prep time, 15–20 minutes.